Wednesday, 4 March 2015

dolce & gabbana fall 2015

This week I reread Tavi Gevinson’s blog post where she discusses what it was like sitting next to Anna Wintour at New York Fashion Week. Tavi begins to detail the beginning of her disillusionment with aspects of the fashion industry. After this I too felt somewhat disenchanted with the superficial facade and the problematic strands of the industry that actually have nothing to do with the art of the clothes themselves. That is why I find myself with a distinct fondness for Dolce & Gabbana’s Autumn/Winter 2015 collection, which celebrated the wholesome theme of motherhood. Fashion can often seem like a detached narcissistic world separate from the private sphere of family, humble origins and innocent love, but Dolce & Gabbana honed in on the importance of appreciating the home and the family in fast-paced modern life. The reaction to North West’s tantrum on the front row at New York Fashion Week last month appeared to reveal an attitude of almost (only part ironic) dislike towards young children, or at least a dislike towards their annoying behaviour. 


Dolce & Gabbana's Fall 2015 collection reminds us of the power of mothers, and just in time for Mother's Day too. The maternal glow represented through the array of pastel dresses and rose embellishments was conveyed as powerful and individual when far too often mothers in popular culture are boxed into prototypical roles. Though bringing into discussion notions of gender, the collection was not over politicised or bordering on distasteful as such ideas have been presented through fashion lately. It made the point that being a mother does not replace a woman's identity as an individual, but simultaneously, it does add an important layer to female identity. The woman's traditional role no longer need be oppressive. Obsession with being a strong and independent working woman has somewhat marginalised motherhood, but having children should not prevent us from being any of those things if we wish to be. We can be both. However, with talk of freezing eggs and glass ceilings, it seems that becoming a mother still holds its limitations within the career ladder, so perhaps now is the perfect time to celebrate motherhood in defiance of such injustice. 


Fashion is about looking forwards but its moments of nostalgia and themes of memory are not limited to never-ending 1960s revivals. The children's drawings printed onto the clothes are reminiscent of Angelina Jolie's wedding dress that her children doodled on for her wedding to Brad in 2014. The Dolce & Gabbana drawings are based on the drawings of Domenico's nieces and nephews and some were done by the child of the printer. Following the leitmotif of memory is the use of roses as a repeated motif throughout the collection which was inspired by Stefano's childhood smell of his mother's rose scented red lipstick. Though this demonstrates the personal meanings of the clothes to the designers, the collection has a universal appeal. Its glamour is not cold and empty. It is a breath of life, and it is real.
Unfortunately, Dolce & Gabbana did not use this to incorporate more diversity into the show. It would have been the perfect opportunity for more diverse ethnicities, body types and ages. The fact that they did not grab onto this is disappointing, but not unexpected. 


Despite priding itself on being forward-thinking, fashion can sometimes get so caught up in the moment and what is happening right now that the future is disregarded. But, as Stefano said of the collection, "Children are the future." This idea balanced out by the nostalgia of home creates a charming contrast. Young children on the runway never usually comes across as holding any moral fibre or good will, but here it seems so innocent and joyful. Had this concept been brought to life by another fashion house and it may have come across as tacky, but Dolce & Gabbana has always seemed like a family. Their campaigns depicting Sicilian families are joyfully endearing. This collection is merely a lovely extension of that. Furthermore, the clothes are so artfully constructed. The collection itself consisted of shift dresses, lace, gold embellishments and high fashion headphones (perhaps bringing in the teenager into the Dolce & Gabbana FW15 family?) Dolce & Gabbana are the absolute KINGS OF FOOTWEAR. Here are some of my favourites from this collection:


Have a good week!

Saturday, 28 February 2015

her life was saved by rock & roll

Today I am dressed with Dondup FW15 and the following moodboards of 1970s rock and roll and 1990s grunge in mind. That is to say, I pretty much dressed how I normally do because the Dondup collection kind of embodied my style. Is that too much self flattery? Maybe it embodies what I wish my style was. I love the mix of smart and punky; minimalist and creative contrast. 




My camera battery ran out as I was about to take these photos so my mum took some on her camera instead. This skirt blows about so much in the wind, which is perfect for photographs but not so perfect when you're walking down the high street.










I've become obsessed with Sky Ferreira lately. Her videos are flawless and I love her style. This summer I plan to dress like her for everyday for at least a week. I reread Tavi Gevinson's interview with Sky in Rookie Yearbook 1 when I was ill in half term. In it they discuss fashion and Sky says she loves Givenchy and the way that Elle Fanning wears clothes.

Everything's Embarrassing

You're Not The One
This whole video is my ideal aesthetic for this summer really. Those sunglasses are fabulous.

I Blame Myself

Sad Dream

Lost In My Bedroom

Night Time, My Time

17
Rebellious teen sneaking out/Effy Stonem vibes.

One

Dynamite State

Obsession

Red Lips
This video freaks me the hell out, but Sky's smoky eye/red lip combo is on point. The red lipstick painted face and tarantula are less likely to catch on though. Don't watch full screen if watching a tarantula on a screen crawl towards you makes you feel all itchy like spiders are crawling all over you, which totally didn't happen to me.

Also, I just watched Gone Girl for the first time and it was, like, amazing.
Have a great weekend! 

Wednesday, 25 February 2015

ashish fall 2015


“I think the only way that any of us can ever be happy is to let it all hang out… and you know… fuck it.” 

So the breathy voice in the background spoke as the sassy models at Ashish Fall 2015 made their way down the runway in patent red boots, in lingerie, in sequins. Inspired by, “high-class hookers who only dress for themselves" the show oozed tacky sensuality. However, there seemed to be an overriding theme that was more tragic and sympathetic than a Donnatella Versace creation. The look was simultaneously seductive, melancholy and powerful; a strange contrast that came about via a combination of silk underwear, slip dresses and military prints. Ashish’s signature streetwise look also came across, helping to translate the inspiration behind the collection. The clothes themselves were young, fun and attention grabbing, another quintessentially Ashish feature. It seemed to celebrate the artistic diversity of young London.


Ashish’s provocative tragedy was made up of thigh-high boots, slip dresses, lingerie, fur and lots of sequins. The thrift-store parkas added a street wise, unkempt vibe and balanced out the over the top luxury of the fur and sequin combos. The vulnerability expressed through the collection's skimpy pieces is emphasised through its inspiration, the film Klute; a crime thriller in which Jane Fonda stars as a prostitute helping a detective solve a missing person's case. However, in contrast to this sense of near helplessness is the strong military vein than runs through the collection in the appearance of army prints and bulky jackets. This definitely introduces a defiance which is maintained with the streetwise independence portrayed throughout. 


It could be argued that Ashish's Fall 2015 collection was an exploration of feminity; its seductive charms and defiant strength paralleled with its fragility and vulnerability. The clothes exude confidence, even if the context veils this with a haunted shadow, with materials stitched together giving off a punk attitude. Overall, the collection's dishevelled beauty showed a sympathetic attitude towards both sex and luxury; two elements that are so non-ironically omnipresent throughout fashion week.

Images from style.com and New York Times. Screencaps from Klute.

Saturday, 21 February 2015

love will tear us apart


Jumper- thrifted
Jeans- Topshop
Doc Martens


I've been researching a lot about Lee Alexander McQueen lately. I booked tickets for Savage Beauty at the V&A for the weekend after my final exam in the summer, so on Thursday I watched the documentary "McQueen and I" (that you can see on YouTube) and yesterday on the train home from London I read the article on him in the Spring/Summer 2015 issue of AnOther Magazine. It was not until I watched "McQueen and I" that I realised what an unassuming designer he was; how much his presentation of himself differed from this genius artistic vision that he put forward to this world through his collections. This is something I love about him. It's very clever and it's very punk. Last night I watched the Autumn/Winter 1995 show, titled "Highland Rape" and it was so shocking and harrowing but I couldn't tear my eyes away. A 30-minute fashion show usually has me reaching for my phone to scroll through tumblr but this one was so fascinating; from the way that some models staggered down the runway whilst others stormed angrily, throwing up a middle finger as they turned and the garments that ranged from ripped, disarrayed, nudity displaying tartan to chic blouses and pencil skirts, everything came together to create this conceptual world that was far from a heavenly vision but displayed McQueen’s raw, multifaceted genius. 


I've been journalling: 






Holly Fulton Fall 2015

My favourite collection from London Fashion Week so far has to be Holly Fulton. The pieces epitomise simplistic elegance, with delicate silk and chiffon fabrics played off against statement earrings and luxurious furs. Adding innovation to a collection that otherwise appears to be a celebration of classical beauty, Fulton adds bold hexagonal shades and a pink latex (?) type fabric. I adore the romantic colour spectrum of this collection. The bursts of green come across as quite shocking in contrast, but next to the romantic pinks and creams they could symbolise new life- not usually synonymous with Autumn but summer seems to get later and later each year so garden party dresses may be wearable until October at least.




This is probably my favourite dress from the collection. It reminds me of the detail in pieces that the Mulleavy sisters design for Rodarte. The colours and fabrics clash, but brilliantly so, and the embellishments add an intricately artistic impression.


Colourful faux fur has been a much coveted look these past few seasons. Below the knee adds extra obnoxiously extravagant elegance and looking obnoxious, extravagant and elegant is ALWAYS the goal.


Job interview looks Autumn 2k15


The romantic beauty of this dress truly reminds me of a Valentino couture gown. Just wow.


Snow Queen

Half term is nearly over and next term I'll start revision so will probably slow down with blogging. I'm excited for the rest of the Fall 2015 collections though and hopefully that will get me through the first few weeks of the next term. 
Have a good weekend xoxo