Wednesday, 22 October 2014

jeans represent democracy in fashion

Taken by Antonio

Jeans have always been a wardrobe essential, but now they are not slack, but stylish.

This season, it is not only the uber cool off-duty supermodels that you can see dashing around London in cashmere jumpers, chunky black boots and a pair of flawlessly fitted skinny jeans. Many a budding fashionista has traded in their experimental avant-garde attire for the simplicity of denim, and it is not just one style drawing the fans in either. One day you may be dressed up in skinny jeans, a fitted jumper and a faux fur gilet. The next day you may opt for a vintage sweatshirt with a pair of baggy ripped jeans and delicate stilettos. Another day you might decide to wear a plaid shirt tucked into belted mom jeans with heeled Chelsea boots.

Clockwise from top left: Alexa Chung via, Sasha Luss via, fashion blogger Andy Heart, fashion blogger Summer Listen, Charlie Barker and Elizabeth Jane Bishop via Instagram, Kate Moss via Flickr, Natalie Off Duty, Chiara Ferragni

As fashion peacocks compete for the attention of street-style photographers, there has been subversion back to basics; coined, far from economically, “normcore.” This, however, does not translate to "boring." "I don't think I've seen ugly people wearing ugly jeans for a very long time. Jeans are comfy. They make you look cool without actually having to put effort in. They are just the trouser to wear," says Antonio, drinking a can of Diet Coke as we sit in the dark on the fence surrounding our local park, with cars shining their headlights as they pass. He's wearing a thrifted denim jacket, burgundy sweatshirt, white Converse and Topman blue jeans, "Double denim is okay because Alexa Chung said so," he justified to me earlier when we were waiting to pay for our drinks. "I really like Mom jeans" he explains, "Not whether they look good on me or not, but when I see people wearing Mom jeans and pulling it off casually, it looks good." And if money was no object and he could buy any jeans he wanted? "Levis because you trust them. Levis are the classics."

Jeans through history: Clockwise from top left: James Dean via, Teddy boys via tumblr, 1950s teenagers via tumblr, editorial via Teen Vogue, Marlon Brando via, Vintage Levi's ad via

Levi's are definitely the classics. Levi began making denim overalls in the 1870s. The first pair of 501 jeans were made in the 1890s. These would later go on to be the brand's best-selling style. At first, the jeans were mostly sold only to cowboys, lumberjacks and rail-road workers. Although Levis have been around since the late 19th century, it was not until the 1950s that they began to be adopted as a sort of uniform for youth subcultures. Jeans got their cool, rebellious label from films like "Rebel Without A Cause." The likes of James Dean and Marlon Brando gave sex appeal to an item previously associated only with manual labour. As Antonio said, Levis are trusted. Many people go back and buy more than one pair from the brand.

Clockwise from top left: Woodstock via, 1970s teenagers via, Ramones via, quote via Pinterest, 1990s teenagers via

The jeans you wear can say a lot about you. There is a sense of solidarity between everyone who wears Mom jeans, as there is between those wearing skinny jeans. Jeans will always have strong links to subcultures and the source of identity that comes with them. "If I see people wearing black jeans I always think of them as being grungy scene kids. I always think they're gonna have skinny jeans, Doc Martens and a baggy top" Antonio explains. Similarly, the revival of Mom jeans has links to teenage girl internet culture and ripped jeans with patches and safety pins are quintessentially punk.

Street style photos via Tommy Ton

Jeans also have that androgynous appeal that is currently so adored by the fashion world. A quality skinny jean is completely genderless. The ways in which jeans can be styled also tend to lean in a direction devoid of gender norms. Antonio concluded the interview by adding that "That tough thing, for me, as a boy, [is that] there's not much else to wear. I don't like shorts. I like jeans." If I'm not wearing a skirt, I'm wearing jeans. It is difficult to find well-fitted trousers that are as comfortable and flattering as jeans. Furthermore, in August, Leandra Medine asked on Man Repeller, "Are legs out?" as she sat in high waisted black skinny jeans on one of the hottest days of the year.

Left to right: Hood By Air SS15, Fendi SS15, 6397 SS15

Before this year I had not owned a single pair of jeans for some time. I now own 4, with another pair at the very top of my wishlist. The pair in question are the Topshop black ripped Jamie jeans. I have 2 pairs of Topshop jeans and really think that they are the best place on the high street to find the perfect fit. Jeans are such an essential ingredient to an outfit. They take up so much space that they have to be paid attention to. This is why it is paramount that you find the right pair for you. Be fashion forward with high-waisted wide leg jeans like those from Anna Sui Spring/Summer '15, proving that the runway is not immune to this trend. Faded denim, as seen in 6397's SS15 collection is also very on trend right now. Fendi's SS15 collection saw denim on the Fendi runway for the first time ever, proving that jeans can fit into any brand identity.

Clockwise from top left: £25, Rokit; £75, American Apparel; £42, Topshop; £25, Rokit; £75, American Apparel, £40, Topshop; £25, Rokit; £70, Marques Almeida x Topshop; £42, Topshop; £55, The Ragged Priest; £40, Topshop.

A classic pair of Levi's, Acne or Saint Laurent jeans may be high quality, but mostly people want jeans that look good. This means that if your budget does not stretch to designer brands, like most of ours, then it is more worthwhile to get some medium quality jeans in a style that you love. Then you can buy more pairs in different styles. However, there is no need to substitute practicality for style in jeans; you can have both. Ripped jeans are still functional and comfortable, if not a little cold if they are really ripped. Beauty and practicality coexist in jeans and that is why we keep going back to them.

Saturday, 18 October 2014

i spend a lot of time looking at blue

Hello! I’m writing this on Wednesday but it’s not going to be published until Saturday because I go to Portugal next weekend so I’m starting to set up a queue in advance so I don't run out of time and have a mad packing/blogging/crying panic the night before I leave. I’m excited but it’s crazy how quickly it’s come around. All I’ve done in preparation is sort out which books I’m going to take with me. I’ll have no internet access whilst I’m there. It will be nice to have a break from social media because since school has started I’ve spent so much time online. It sounds hypocritical but it will be refreshing to have a week where I can read and write without too many distractions or external influences. I’ve started properly writing poetry recently because last week I got asked three seperate times if I write poetry. That was after I was caught killing a bear with a typewriter to appease the spirit of Hemingway and slathering myself in ink in tribute to Shakespeare when I was working on my creative writing portfolio and applying for creative writing courses at uni. By “properly” writing poetry, I mean poems that I am actually comfortable with other people reading. I will upload them onto my writing blog at some point, but I am thinking of submitting them to The Mackinac so I will put off publishing them until I have found out if they made it into the magazine or not. 
I am going to try and create a mini zine featuring my Spring/Summer ’15 reviews and some other pieces before I go to Portugal. I’ll let you know when it’s completed and you can email me if you would like a PDF copy. Alternatively, I will send free paper copies to anyone who buys a paper issue of Pretty. Issue 6 of Cherry came out a couple of weeks ago. I wrote a piece about self-love for it. 

The photos in this post are from a couple of weeks ago. When I get back from Portugal I'm going to go on some wintry walks with Antonio and he's going to take some photos that I can post on here. I'm wearing New Look jacket, top and skirt, Marks and Spencers' tights and H by Henry Holland shoes.

Wednesday, 15 October 2014

the best of fashion month (part 3)

Yohji Yamamoto SS15: PFW

Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer ’15 collection appears as if from underground 19th century Paris. The models stalked the runway liked haunted seductresses; each movement simultaneously sultry and subtly menacing. Mismatched and outsized, the clothes hung loosely, but with bare shoulders, thigh slits and tiny crop tops, the collection had an unprecedented amount of sex appeal. Yamamoto has purposefully avoided ever created a collection with such a sensual approach. Until now.

Yamamoto’s starting point for the collection was swathing fabric freely on a woman’s body because he “enjoys the feel of fabric against skin.” The simple, baggy tailoring appears to seamlessly blend comfort with style. Although simplistic monochrome overpowered the collection, bursts of gold towards the end served the purpose of making people “wake up.” This intention is questionable, however, because undoubtedly, the monochrome looks were the most powerful and interesting of the collection.

The hair and makeup reinforced the 19th century atmosphere, as the dusty eye shadow and waxed hair made it appear as though the models had come back from the dead. Alongside the spontaneously draped fabrics baring shoulders and thighs, this questioned natural beauty. The helmets scattered across the collection also created a ghostly tone. suggest that Yamamoto used this accessory to make the point that we must protect the mind; protect the imagination.

The closing look was a ghostly Miss Havisham-esque creation; put together using fresh dahlias and orchids. A driving force behind the collection was Yamamoto’s view that “sexuality and flowers' beauty for me are the same. Flowers are not always beautiful; women are not always beautiful. It depends on the conditions.” There was a delicate beauty to the collection reminiscent of the delicacy of sexuality and flowers alike. Lightness and fluidity added power to the collection. It felt very natural, linking again back to flowers and sexuality.

Yamamoto’s SS15 collection reinforces his place as an iconic designers, showing how he is unafraid to deviate from his usual direction in order to experiment with different breeds of elegance. He blends timeless monochrome pieces with visionary, avante garde accessories.
Comme des Garçons SS15: PFW

Love, lust, danger, energy, power, passion, strength, desire…If there is one colour on the spectrum that is the most abundant with strong connotations, it is red. That is why it is curious to contemplate Rei Kawakubo’s decision to focus her entire Spring/Summer ’15 collection on this single potent shade. Kawakubo explored many of these associations through the idiosyncratically deconstructed pieces that made up the collection. Powerfully thought-provoking and experimental as ever, this season was a strong one for Kawakubo.
The clothes themselves inspired a range of emotional responses. The first includes fabric shaped to appear like roses, immediately bringing to mind connotations of love. A later look made up from small cut up pieces of fabric comes across as more dangerous and the hooded looks could be from Little Red Riding Hood, or from M. Night Shymalan’s The Village. One piece strays from the dominant colour scheme in that a red pattern is splattered onto a white background. This could be reminiscent of spattered blood, creating a much darker tone.
Kawakubo manipulates the power of the colour red to create pleasant, romantic vibes, contrasted starkly against a lot of darker tones. Some outfits appear light-hearted; others not so much. The importance of colour is no more obvious than when the second hooded look comes out. Instead of the bright red shade, the hood is black. This immediately has darker connotations and creates a drastically different tone to the red hooded figure seen previously. The model’s face is shaded and the red inspires thoughts of blood and danger. The collections closing look, features not quite a hood, but what appears more like a plastic bag. Is Kawakubo suggesting death; murder, even? It feels that way.
Comme des Garçons is one of the most memorable SS15 collections, if not only for its colourful consistency. It proves that colour is not just random; but purposeful and powerful. Tavi Gevinson recently did a piece for The Times’ Style in which she discusses colours. Apparently red lipstick is inappropriate for the office because studies have shown that red makes people think of vaginas. Oh.

Chanel SS15: PFW

The collection itself was an optimistic celebration of individuality. Models walked down the Parisian boulevard in pairs and groups, creating an atmosphere much more natural and applicable to everyday life than Lagerfeld’s past collections. The clothes were a bright myriad of colourful tweeds and floral prints reminiscent of water colour paintings. Sartorially, it felt as though every age demographic was represented; cute floral mini dresses to smart monochrome suits to comfy slouched tweed looks.
The collection, however, was overpowered by the show itself. Although this is often the case with Lagerfeld’s presentations, this time it was true to a greater extent than ever before. People rushed to social media to express their opinions on the protest march that closed the collection. Some spoke of it in a positive manner, emphasising that anything that brings feminism into the conversation is progressive. However, others believed that signs like “Boys should get pregnant too” and “Féministe mais Feminine” trivialised and poked fun at the movement. Furthermore, commercialising protest and using it to sell clothes does seem rather distasteful given what is going on in Hong Kong at the moment. Lagerfeld cited 1960s women’s liberation movements as his inspiration, but feminism is still an important cause today. If done by a designer who seemed to genuinely support feminism, created powerful slogans and included a wider range of ethnicities, ages and body types then it might have worked. However, Lagerfeld (who has previously stated that Chanel was not ugly enough to be a feminist) clearly did not meet such requirements.
Nonetheless, the collection as a whole did have very Gabrielle Chanel vibes. The women strolling down the “Boulevard Chanel” were confident, independent, individual and daring; all qualities that were to be admired in the brand’s founding designer. The protest at the end may have been questionable, but signs like “Be Different” and “Make Fashion Not War” worked wonderfully with the theme of sartorial confidence. One thing is certain; Chanel SS15 will not easily be forgotten.  


Saturday, 11 October 2014

i dreamt of you last night and the world split into two

This week has been pretty hectic. I’m starting to realise how time-consuming my final year of school is going to be. However, I think that is partially because even the things I enjoy doing (such as blogging and writing) could actually have an effect on my future and consequently it feels like I’m working all the time. Even when I don’t have school work I’m honing my creative writing portfolio, working on the school magazine and reading books for school. I volunteered at the library again this morning and got to colour in a pair of knickers (it was to promote a performance of a play for children at a local theatre.) I’m going on an autumnal dog walk to the lake this afternoon. The trees form a canopy over the footpath and it looks very beautiful this time of year. I went on a run there last weekend and the sun was shining through the orange leaves and glittering on the lake.  

I've been dressing in black a lot lately because I'm devastated about the news that Morrissey has cancer  I like how clean and uncomplicated it looks. One of the women working at the library today was wearing really cool monochrome creepers and she said she liked my boots. I wear them far too much and the soles are wearing away but they go with everything and are so comfortable. 
Last weekend I went to the Horst exhibition at the V&A. It was truly spectacular and completely worth the £6 ticket. It was so vast, with rooms filled with Horst's early work, his projects focusing on texture and, of course, his extensive work for Vogue. Seeing it all in one place makes you realise how important fashion photography is in our understanding of an era. Vogue and the photographers who have contributed much of their life work to it have created a visual timeline of our culture. The exhibition also featured some original designer dresses created by the likes of Chanel and Schiaparelli, an original black and white video going behind the scenes at Vogue in the early 20th century and a long glass case stretching across the room, filled with old issues of Vogue.

After the exhibition whilst we were traipsing through Oxford Street looking for a place to get coffee, I spotted that Urban Outfitters now have a coffee shop inside, so we ran across the road and got chai lattes. A dash to the changing rooms with armfuls of clothes later ensued as it always does when I go to Urban Outfitters. I've been trying to save money to go to Paris this summer so I didn't actually buy any of the clothes I tried on, but aren't the dresses beautiful? I think the first one looks very poetic and the second one very Edie Sedgwick. Oh well...

Wednesday, 8 October 2014

the best of fashion month (part 2)

Fendi SS15: MFW

Rome was the inspiration for Fendi’s Spring/Summer ’15 collection. Models walked down straight Roman roads whilst classical piano music played underneath the sound of frequent cars speeding past. Silvia Venturini Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld delivered a show with a modern cosmopolitan buzz, simultaneously paying homage to a city so steeped in historical heritage. The looks themselves suggested streetwise sophistication, with an exotic, European twist.

Fendi and Lagerfeld encapsulated a vibrant city, rich with culture but not afraid of propelling itself into modernity. Cara Delevigne who, love her or loathe her, is undeniably the most recognisable model in the fashion industry right now, opened the show, demonstrating that the designers wanted Fendi to be commercially appealing- even allowing denim to grace the Fendi catwalk for the first ever time.

The collection itself consisted of pretty blue floral prints, delicate sandals and a colour palette that shifted between feminine pastels and contemporary monochrome. Lagerfeld and Fendi showed a diverse range of fabrics throughout, with materials from shimmery to sheer, PVC to clear plastic.The most iconic looks, however, came in the form of the feathered mini dresses. One was paraded on model of the moment Binx Walton. Another, worn by Joan Smalls.

At Fendi it is always impossible not to note the accessories as a fundamental element of the overall look. Strappy sandals, cat-eye sunglasses and embellished handbags brought a luxurious '60s vibe to the collection, drawing on a collective nostalgia for the aesthetics of that era that is so prevalent amongst young people today. Dramatic blue eye-makeup was a consistent feature that flowed through every look, making the collection more cohesive.

Fendi's SS15 collection encapsulated Rome as a modern city. Taking somewhere with traditionally strong ties to religion and history and merging it with the fact that it is situated in a country that plays a vital role in the global fashion industry, Lagerfeld and Fendi have reacted to the effect of globalisation on such an historic city and they could not have gone about it in a more chic way. Now pass the pizza, but don't spill it on your crisp, white Fendi dress.

Versace SS15: MFW

The collection got off to a surprising start. The glamour and sexuality of Versace was cast aside for a a sleek, modest black set. The slit up the leg, bare stomach and the subtle logo embellishments are the only nods towards classic Donatella. The opening looks all presented an elegant modesty. Undeniably, Spring/Summer ’15 Versace introduced a fresh, clean look that presented mesh and glitter as classy fashion choices. It was the simplistic charm of the looks that made it such an effective collection. It was bold and straightforward, encapsulating a modern sophistication.

The collection consisted of sharp tailoring, shiny pastel tones and embellished leather details. The looks were sexy in an understated way. They were aesthetically appealing in an artful way. Even the Versace-esque mesh gelled cohesively with the uptown vibes of the rest of the collection.

Each look reconceptionalised the Versace logo, creating an image that was less logomania and more millennial. The shine on the pastel coloured dresses, added to the atmosphere of newness that infiltrates the collection. The set had a powerful influence too, with the runway reflecting the pink logo, creating an aesthetic paradise. 

There is no theme that runs through Versace's SS15 collection. However, it has been noted on social media that it has many similarities with tumblr art blogs, such as 122x, fkatwigs and ppolishprincess. The clean, unembellished aesthetic does match the mindset of many young people when it comes to fashion. It is stylish without trying too hard to be. names this Versace's "strongest collection in a long time." This is a bold yet incredibly accurate statement. Donatella abandoned the brand's usual overt sexiness in favour for something a little more covert, more refined, sleeker. SS15 will always be one of Versace's strongest collections.

Gareth Pugh SS15: PFW

Gareth Pugh's Spring/Summer '15 collection appeared as if from a dystopian dream or perhaps a bizarre nightmare. In reality, Pugh was inspired by much more earthly elements. Collaborating with the Museum of British Folklore to perfect the collection, Pugh titled the look "frayed luxury." Some elements leant more in one direction or the other. The first half of the collection is pretty and feminine and much of it is created using more generic materials. However, the "frayed" outfits are to follow, with dresses resembling potato sacks, made from the same sackcloth used to make scarecrows. Conceptually, this part of the collection is flawless. The looks are artfully tailored, especially considering the tough fabrics that were being worked with. 

Floral embellishments and delicate materials showed how expertly made even the wearable pieces are. However, the most iconic looks were those that stood out amongst the others. The papier-mache skulls, wacky headpieces, complete scarecrow looks and, probably most unforgettably, the all engulfing silhouette of the look inspired by Padstow Obby Oss stole the attention away from the tamer looks.

The sheer originality of this collection makes it a visionary and unforgettable season for Gareth Pugh. However, the fact that it was shown in a showroom in New York during Paris Fashion Week instead of at a show in Paris, as Pugh usually shows his collections, may mean that it is unjustly overlooked.The showroom was an "immersive presentation" but few got to attend, leaving the Paris shows inspiring the headlines and social media discussions.

Designers often draw inspiration from folklore in the form of chunky ponchos or boho prints, but Pugh took that idea and shaped it into something more idiosyncratic, more sensational. Gareth Pugh SS15 is one of those collections that it is difficult to get out of your mind; whether in puzzlement over that Padstow Obby Oss inspired outfit or in awe at the beauty of the flower embellished bodysuit. 

Saturday, 4 October 2014

i love love

This school year is so different to last year. I only study three subjects now (English Literature, History and Sociology) so a lot of the time it is entirely down to me to choose how to spend my time. That said, I have been keeping myself busy. I volunteer at the library every Saturday where I run craft sessions for children. I can decide on the theme and activity then ask the library to get the right materials, so it's quite a creative outlet seeing as I don't do much crafty sort of art aside from the odd collage for the rest of the year. Tomorrow I am going to London to see The Private Apartment of Mademoiselle Chanel exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery. I feel like my life is becoming more cohesive this year. I have had so many more opportunities and freedom to accept them. I feel more comfortable with myself than I thought I ever could or would.
I have felt a bit of a mad panic that this is my last year as an Official Teenager, when I’ve wasted most of my adolescence relating far too much to this Morrissey quote: “I was never young. This idea of fun: cars, girls, Saturday night, bottle of wine... to me, these things are morbid. I was always attracted to people with the same problems as me. It doesn't help when most of them are dead.” Perhaps it is just that I have matured and these things are no longer "morbid" to me. Instead I associate them with being and feeling alive.

These photos are from one day last week. I forget which one, as the days are all starting to blur into one and everyday I exchange complaints with the lady who works in the sixth form cafe about how it should be the weekend already as I pay for my coffee then shuffle away exhaustedly. 
The night before I wore this, I dreamt that I was at a dinner part with Elizabeth Jane Bishop and Charlie Barker where Charlie kept saying to me, "It's all about the pastel vintage clothes" and I was like "Yar, ya, yeaahhh" because obviously I've known that since like 2012. 

I'm wearing sunglasses from Primark, top from American Apparel, kimono jacket from Forever 21, skirt from American Apparel and boots from I'm really happy that I can get away with wearing the top to school with a jacket over it, because otherwise it shows my SHOULDERS!! RUN FOR SAFETY!!

I don't know if I wrote about it on here, but I submitted an article about Johnny Marr's lyrics, to his fanzine "Dynamic" and it got accepted. Johnny tweeted about it when it was released on the day before I went back to school, so I was like "muuuum I don't have to go back to school now: I've made it!!" Below is the article as it appears in the zine. You can read the whole of "Dynamic" here.

Wednesday, 1 October 2014

the best of fashion month (part 1)

I have started to review my favourite shows of fashion month and I'm going to print them into a zine. I'll send free hard copies to anyone who buys a hard copy of Pretty over the next few months. Issue 6 is now up and it's my favourite one yet so I think you should buy it. The purpose of these fashion shows reviews is mostly to practice some more "professional" writing skills with the hope of writing something that is worth putting in my creative writing portfolio for uni. I'm going to include some short stories and articles (not poems because they are all on screwed up bits of paper under my pillow/at the bottom of my underwear drawer/at the back of my wardrobe in handbags I haven't used for ten years), but as it's supposed to represent you and what you want to do, I figured I should probably put some fashion related articles in there too. 
A secondary objective is to get all my favourites in one place in a cohesive manner. Writing about each collection in my own words has made me realise why I like this selection of shows so much and given me a deeper understanding of the concepts behind them. 
To properly read each of these it might be easier to zoom in or download them as images. I'd love to know what you think of my attempt at being Tim Blanks. 

Alexander Wang SS15: NYFW

The show was fresh and upbeat as models strutted down the runway at a sporty pace to a soundtrack of empowering tunes. The look was fit, healthy off-duty downtown supermodel. Miss Vogue notes that Wang’s popularity is partially due to the revival of health conscious adolescent minds. Looking toned and athletic is to today what hippie/punk/grunge was to our parents and grandparents and Alexander Wang has tuned into this new attitude flawlessly. The clothes exude confidence through their blend of comfort and daringly bright colours. Wang is channelling the streetwise New Yorker who knows how to dress practically and looked on point 24/7.

The music, set and pace of the show all factor into the vibrant atmosphere envisioned by Wang. Although the collection is at the other end of the spectrum to sickeningly predictable Spring/Summer florals, the clothes do have a seasonal sensibility about them. Easily to move in, well fitted and clearly made for an active wearer, Wang channels the more lively connotations with the warmer seasons. The collection itself was abundant with neons and black, all emphasising a sporty simplicity. It consisted also of tailored jackets, harsh, minimalist monochrome prints, introducing an element of professionalism. Athletic casual and tailored work-wear fused together seamlessly to create an empowering, glamorous image.

Noting “sneakers!” as his starting point, Wang appears to have picked up some Parisian style tips since he started designing for Balenciaga. Chanel and Dior have both recently favoured the practical, comfy footwear over spindly sky-high stilettos, proving that the previous faux pas is actually really chic right now. Wang’s show was a burst of energy in New York Fashion Week, making it as stand-out collection.

Unquestionably, Alexander Wang’s SS15 collection was a contemporary, awakening experience. Wang has reaffirmed his place as a future fashion legend and ensured that his H&M collaboration planned for later this year will fly off the shelves and his legion of followers cannot wait. 

Rodarte SS15: NYFW

The show instantly brought to mind tales of mermaids with a taste for punk, as the tough but feminine models glided across the iridescent floor to an ethereal soundtrack that opened up a fantasy world ever so lovingly created by the Mulleavy sisters for their Spring/Summer '15 collection. The models strutted through this aquatic wonderland in a sea of gamine blouses and free-flowing dresses that sparkle like the waves under the midday sun. The soundtrack reflected the oceanic atmosphere of the collection; though fast-paced, the synthesiser created a dreamily haunting feel.

This conceptual world envisioned by the Mulleavys was brought to life through the music, the set, the clothes and the models. One or two of these factors on their own would not have been enough to create such a lasting impression of this enchanting set of sea princesses presented in the show.

Each look was intricately detailed, with embellishments attached to dresses to make it seem as though they had been left at the bottom of the ocean for glitteringly beautiful sea-life attach themselves to. The netting could have looked messy, but done in such an artful manner, it looked positively classy. The embroidery favoured the theme of the collection; adding to the Mulleavys' mystical marine universe.

Though thematic in many other ways, Rodarte's SS15 collection avoids the cliché of wet-look hair in a collection reminiscent of mysterious underwater world. Instead, beauty looks were focused on the multiple eyebrow rings. This, along with the flashing lights and fast beat to help set the scene, introducing a punk element to the otherwise prettily feminine collection. 

The consistent leitmotif of Rodarte worked in the Mulleavy sisters' favour, as it made their SS15 collection one of the most unforgettable of the season. Simple to reference and broad enough to examine from numerous angles, Rodarte SS15 had a charming diversity that inspires a range of creative interpretations to invent in the coming season.

Tom Ford SS15: LFW

Stunningly sensual and seductive, the show mixed melancholy romanticism with punk sensibility. The permeating dark atmosphere stretched beyond the darkness of the makeup and sultry dresses; a darkness of the heart. The makeup, set and models all worked together to create a gothic, underground scene. Its dark atmosphere certainly left an impression. Its consistently shadowy colour scheme went against the grain of Spring/Summer trends. This further suggests that Ford’s intent was to conjure up images of party girls who stay out even after the sun has gone down on the longest day of the year.

The collection consisted of skyscraper heels, dresses so tiny that the tops of stockings were unashamedly visible and diaphanous tops that covered little. These glamorous rebel girls looked ready to turn heads at all the uptown parties. The glittery fabrics resonated with the lights of a late night party.

Tom Ford himself was not at the show to comment on the collection afterwards, but whispered rumours backstage suggested that Debbie Harry was a key figure in inspiring the presented image. The punky eye makeup and hairstyles could confirm this, but it appears to be darker than that. 

The looks were relatively simplistic, but that makes them all the more versatile and adaptable. With his S/S ’15 collection Tom Ford created a mysterious after-dark world that captured both the upbeat highs and melancholy lows of night-time in the city. 

Saturday, 27 September 2014

with a kiss i'd pass the key

I still have some outfits that I wore over the summer that I have not yet posted. I will stagger them out over the next few weeks and hopefully upload some more recent outfits that are more weather appropriate soon. It is not truly autumnal yet so nude tights are wearable without freezing your legs off. I wore a t-shirt without a jacket when I went on a walk today, so I guess that my summer looks do not seem too foreign at this time of year.

I haven't posted any outfits of mine in over a month. School is busy and by the time I get home I look such a mess and I'm too hot and tired to set up the tripod and take photos. I've been back at school for 3 weeks now and I like being back to the routine, though I wish I had more time for keeping up with fashion month. I've spent most of my time writing essays, listening to "Horses" by Patti Smith and checking
This weekend is the first completely free weekend I've had since returning to school. I had a horror film marathon last night and I've finished the 6th issue of my zine. I will be scanning it and uploading it to Etsy tomorrow. It is the last issue of the year and I'm sad that it is over. I definitely would not have time to continue publishing monthly issues on top of A Levels, uni applications and running the school magazine though. I've been going on lots of runs lately to clear my head and de-stress. I recently went to see the Old Vic production of "A Streetcar Named Desire" at the cinema. I had never seen a theatre show at the cinema before. It was really well done because there was a revolving in the round stage which meant we got to see the stage from all different angles. It was a lot easier to catch subtle movements because the camera zoomed in so we got the equivalent of a front row view.
Next weekend I'm going to the Saatchi Gallery to see an exhibition of photographs of Coco Chanel's apartment. Although I have studied similar photographs in the various biographies I have, it will be lovely to see every section of the apartment and view it in the same space as I saw the Little Black Jacket exhibition two years ago.

I started reading Jane Eyre last week. I thought that I would find it really difficult to get into but I have been getting through it quite quickly and I love it. I used to not have a particular fondness for anything written pre-20th century (other than Oscar Wilde) but reading "Wuthering Heights" earlier this year was magical and Jane Eyre is turning out to be similarly enticing. I also like how the most famous female writers were around in that era. Although their novels were originally published under male pseudonyms, the Brontes and Jane Austen are probably the most famous female writers of all time, yet works by women did not get such widespread and timeless recognition until the second half of the 20th century and even then they were still very much overshadowed by their male counterparts. I read this today, so I have been thinking about it a lot.

My hat, sunglasses and necklace are all from Primark. If I ever go in there it's only for accessories because hello £2 sunglasses. Top and jacket are both from Pull & Bear. I got them from Portugal and I am going back to the same place next month. My skirt is from New Look. My socks are Topshop and shoes from Rocketdog. 
I hope that you all have a good week. I will review the Private Apartment of Mademoiselle Chanel exhibition soon. I HAVE JUST SEEN COMME DES GARCONS' LATEST COLLECTION OMG COLLECTIVE GASP GUYS. Tell me what you think of it in the comments!!!

Wednesday, 24 September 2014

i don't speak italian and i don't speak moschino either

Last week Jeremy Scott was praised for making fashion fun and energetic. However, for every person who thought that Moschino's Barbie-inspired Spring 2015 collection was fun, there were at least five who hated it. After Jeremy Scott's McDonald's inspired debut for Moschino, critics and fans have been divided. Whilst Scott has a growing, loyal fan base and has been widely successful on social media, many believe his collections to be tacky and tasteless. Though you could argue that that is the point. Here's a look through Scott's work for Moschino so far, starting with last Thursday's Milan Fashion Week show.

Despite looking the accurate embodiment of Barbie, logomania is tacky enough without being placed on such a sickly shade of pink. This outfit looks like it would be worn by someone who talks non-stop about going to the gym all the time but never actually does any serious exercise once they're there.

Roller skates on a runway are a sure fire way to have the audience on edge. When Kendall Jenner struggles to even make her way down the runway in heels, it's not difficult to imagine why. This look was kind of cute but Charlotte Free's wobble at the end of the runway is so uncomfortable.

When I was 6 years old my favourite song was Steps' 5678. This look reminds me of that song. Need I say more?

Underwear as outerwear only works when Jean Paul Gaultier does it and it definitely does not work over skirt suits. It looks like something a young child would create in a doll template book. But even a child wouldn't choose such ugly, garish colours.

Slogans saying the stupidest things are everywhere at the moment, so nothing original here. I cannot think of a colour less punk than yellow. Consequently, I can't think of a worse colour for a biker jacket (except perhaps vomit green.) The belt looks like a rope used to separate swimming pool lanes.

Pink tracksuits? EW, NO. Quilted fabric? EW, NO. The shade of pink and the chain embellishments make it worse. It looks like something a character from Shameless might wear.

I HATE it when brands rip off Chanel suits in such a terrible fashion. Not only is that horrible quilted fabric repeated, but the suit looks like it is genuinely ill-fitting. It looks like a teenage fashion experiment gone wrong and not in a cool Tavi Gevinson kind of way.

However, this was not Jeremy Scott's first attempt at ruining Moschino and getting himself fired. In Fall 2014 he took just as bold a shot at it by making a collection about McDonalds his debut at a luxury Italian fashion brand. Great...

I swear Primark did a jumper like this a few years ago. Cool.

Unwearable catwalk gowns are my favourites, but these are literally so unwearable. Not to mention that if you ate crisps and cheese snacks all the time you wouldn't be able to fit into a sample size designer gown.


Remove the snapback, all the jewellery and the gold tips off the shoes and this look is passable. Here there is too much gold.

At first glance, this look is okay. Then you spot the underwear. Wear these shimmery tracksuit bottoms low enough to show off your tacky Moschino underwear. You know you want to. Even Jourdan Dunn can't make this look appear desirable.

In between these two atrocities we have Resort 2015 which was actually rather cute. Jeremy Scott said that he values first impressions more than detailed analysis. responded to this with their first impressions of this collection. Now I'm going to do the same.

1. Wow. Moschino can actually be kind of chic.

2. (Following 3 similar looks) Ripping of Chanel a bit. It does look gorgeous though.

3. Elizabeth Jane Bishop?  

4. My mum and I used to wear printed denim like this in the '90s. 

 5. Reminds me of the outfits I wear to school minus the bare stomach because that is ILLEGAL @ school.

6. I bought a shirt like this in a charity shop in the summer holidays. 

7. I'd rather have real money.

Jeremy Scott's first menswear collection was young and upbeat without being too tacky. Many of the models liked it so much that they asked if they could take the clothes home with them.

Is that what the fashion kids wear to rugby training?

The beauty of the stripe is that it can create a gorgeously minimalistic aesthetic. However, Jeremy Scott is not into gorgeous minimalism. This look comes across as clumsy and messy.

The womenswear pieces in the collection were amongst the best looks. They were fun, fresh and really wearable. Though still more high street than high fashion, there is something endearingly loveable about clothes like these.

Brown leather jackets are always a bit risky because they do not carry the same nonchalant coolness as the black leather jacket, but paired with orange trousers it looks downright disastrous.

If Cher Horowitz was a boy, this is what he would have worn in Clueless. 

So, is Jeremy Scott tapped into the minds of our consumer driven generation or is he just creating tacky collections of tacky clothes? Is he making Moschino relevant again or ruining the reputation of the brand? Where is the line drawn between tacky and iconic?