Friday, 26 April 2013

Full of Faults

Over the past six months or so I have been tackling a feeling of disenchantment of the fashion industry. I will still stand by it if anyone questions fashion as an art form, but it is so completely full of faults that it would not be difficult to lose an argument for fashion. 

I used to really, really love Vogue magazine and I have a huge collection but everything seems very one angled in Vogue. The most cliched thing to point out is that all the models are skinny, but it is true that regardless of the Vogue guidelines set out last year I do not think we will see big models used any time soon. I used to defend this by saying that the clothes hang better on super skinny models but that is bullshit. You might as well take photographs of the clothes just on a hanger because these tiny models display no realistic interpretation of how the clothes will look on a typical body. I am not saying that every fashion shoot should use plus size models but I do not think that the fashion industry should be so elitist about body shape and size. If you buy a magazine like i-D or Pop you will still see  skinny models dominating most of the shoots, but their more artistic editorials feature a range of body types. Although the shoots that are solely focused on fashion still use skinny models, there are arty photography sets exploring different body sizes. This is a step in the right direction. It shows that, from an artistic perspective, some of the most beautiful photographs use larger models. There should be a place where all body sizes can coexist. I am not saying that skinny girls should not be allowed to be models but, it's sad that super skinny has become so aspirational.


I also think that it is crazy that the leather trade is still so widely accepted, when most people agree about how unethical real fur is. Of course, most fur used for coats comes from endangered animals hence it is frowned upon but it shocks and sickens me that just because we seem to have cows in abundance the leather trade is still so prosperous. Wearing leather is a perfectly normal everyday thing. Wearing wool is also a perfectly normal everyday thing, but most of the world's wool comes from Australia where they still practice the extremely inhumane process of mulesing which involves chopping off the skin of lambs and sheep to prevent flystrike when many more humane options are available. You can find out more and send an email to the Australian government urging them to end this cruel and unnecessary act here.

Sometimes fashion is just boring. This is the same with every art form. There are some people doing truly great things but others' work seems to be begging for a crescendo of yawns. It just leaves you thinking, 'but what's the point?' 

Then I pick up an issue of i-D or watch a Chanel show and I fall head over heels in love with fashion all over again so it is not all doom and gloom, but I wanted to put some of my feelings about the whole thing in order through writing. The fashion industry might be full of faults but most things are full of faults. I cannot penalise fashion too harshly because it always seems to be caught in the crossfire.

Tuesday, 16 April 2013

Taking the Stand?

Elsa Schiaparelli, 1937
The fashion house Schiaparelli has been dormant for almost sixty years although Elsa Schiaparelli (a contemporary of Coco Chanel) is still a household name for people with even a mild interest in the fashion industry. In 2007 business mogul Diego Della Valle (who also owns footwear brand, Tods) bought the rights to the brand and rumours sparked about a relaunch. All he needed to do was find a designer to create the collection. Last year, it was said that Schiaparelli would be resurrected this February. No such collection has occurred. Della Valle was supposed to decide on a creative director by September last year but rumours are still circulating as to who will take the stand and release the first collection since Elsa in 1954 and no official name has been released. Today, however, rumour has it that Marco Zanini will be taking on the coveted position. Let's look back at the other big names in fashion who have been rumoured to be taking on the role;

Giles Deacon

Image Source: www.guardian.co.uk

All the way back in 2007 British fashion designer, Giles Deacon was the first designer rumoured to taking the stand as creative director at the renewed Schiaparelli. Apparently Della Valle thought that he would be good for the job after saying his spring/summer 2008 collection and noticing that it was not too dissimilar to Schiaparelli in her heyday in the Thirties.  


To view Giles' brilliant Autumn 2013 pret-a-porter collection on style.com click here. 


John Galliano 

Ohmygod he looks like such an arrogant tosser.
Image source: moviecitynews.com

Back in March last year WWD reported that former Dior creative director would be taking the helm at Schiaparelli. However, these rumours were soon announced untrue by a spokesperson for Galliano, who was currently still recovering from alcoholism and the disgrace of being charged in court for charges of racism (I am not sure which was more prominent, as the racist event was all over the news so it was best for Galliano to lay low for a while. I am not doubting his alcohol problem but it does seem like a convenient scapegoat for the whole episode.) I would not want Galliano designing for me if I won the lottery and bought a fashion house because his name has been tarnished in such a despicable way. He was charged suched a meagre fine in court but his career seemed ruined for a while. Now, however, he is receiving numerous offers of work from fashion industry giants. Personally, I think he should pay the consequences for his actions to show that racism is intolerable in fashion, in life and even in drunken nights in the pub. I'm sure that he has enough money to piss off to a faraway island with a villa and a yacht and lots of expensive paintings that could feed children in Africa. I don't like Dior as a fashion house anyway. I find it extravagant and uncreative.


Erdem Moralioglu

Image caption: www.londonfashionweek.co.uk

In November last year, rumours leaked online suggesting that fashion designer Erdem Moralioglu would become the next creative director for Schiaparelli. However, at the time, the brand refused to comment. 


Erdem's Autumn 2013 pret-a-porter collection is sophisticated, Chanel-esque perfection.


Nicolas Ghesquiere



Image Source: disney.wikia.com

After leaving Balenciaga last year, it was rumoured that Ghesquiere would become creative director but that was all that they remained as; rumours. Alas, Della Vella's pursuit for a creative director to relaunch the brand with continued.


View Ghesquiere's last collection for Balenciaga here.


Marco Zanini



Image Source: nancyfashionfancy.blogspot.com

Today, rumours surfaced that, in fact, Marco Zanini would be designing the brand's much awaited comeback collection. Zanini is the only designer on this list whom I have not have heard in of before now. He started his career as an assistant at Dolce and Gabbana before becoming before head of womenswear at Versace. He worked briefly as creative director for American brand, Halston. In 2008 Zanini was hired as creative director at Rochas. 


I literally love Rochas' autumn 2013 soooooo much adghakjwgvldbg.


So, who will it be? What will happen next in Schiaparelli saga? The new collection is planned for June or July this year but will it have to be pushed back again due to the lack of a creative director? I hope, at least, with all this time that it is taking that Della Vella will find someone really perfect for the position; someone who will not soil the Schiaparelli legacy. Also, why are all these rumoured designers men? I'd like to see a woman become creative director at a company founded by a woman at a time when women weren't founders of many things.


Here are some of my favourite looks from Elsa Schiaparelli:



Oversized knits and pencil skirts equate to effortless style.
Image from fashionencylopedia.com
The jumper that inspired this Rookie DIY that I did but ran out of paint and some of the paint went through so I need to sort that out at some point. It's been on my to do list since November...
Image from schoolhousepress.com
Simple dresses=simple elegance
Image from www.fashionencyclopedia.com

Who do you think should take the stand as creative director at Schiaparelli?

Saturday, 13 April 2013

Pretty Passions, Fine Fashions #53

Pretty Passions

Oscar Wilde




The Picture of Dorian Gray is one of my absolute favourite books and I find Oscar Wilde's writing that of a pure genius. Pure genius. He is often very frank with what he has to say and I think that this is a good trait for a writer to possess. You can fill up five pages with an eloquent description of the environment but the reader will most likely fall asleep or start thinking about something else. It is the characters that are most interesting and Wilde knew that; putting the most memorable quotes into their speech (see Lord Henry in The Picture of Dorian Gray.) His often cynical wit is so sharp and timeless. It frightens me how relevant his prose still are to today's society. His comments on the state of humanity and society remain over a century later. Wilde is my absolute favourite writer and I aspire to write at least one sentence matching his genius before I die. 


Ira Glass quote



“Nobody tells this to people who are beginners, I wish someone told me. All of us who do creative work, we get into it because we have good taste. But there is this gap. For the first couple years you make stuff, it’s just not that good. It’s trying to be good, it has potential, but it’s not. But your taste, the thing that got you into the game, is still killer. And your taste is why your work disappoints you. A lot of people never get past this phase, they quit. Most people I know who do interesting, creative work went through years of this. We know our work doesn’t have this special thing that we want it to have. We all go through this. And if you are just starting out or you are still in this phase, you gotta know its normal and the most important thing you can do is do a lot of work. Put yourself on a deadline so that every week you will finish one story. It is only by going through a volume of work that you will close that gap, and your work will be as good as your ambitions. And I took longer to figure out how to do this than anyone I’ve ever met. It’s gonna take awhile. It’s normal to take awhile. You’ve just gotta fight your way through.” 

This is so relevant to me at the moment. At the moment I feel like I am living my life through my heroes and various other influences. My heroes, I think, give me pleasure and distress in equal amounts because they constantly make me feel like whatever I'm doing is inadequate. However, when I saw this on tumblr it motivated me to keep going and perhaps one day I will be someone's hero. I don't know. Maybe.

Fine Fashions

Lana Del Rey


Lana Del Rey's style is heavily '60s influenced but she is not confined to feminine dresses. She also has an all star American '60s boy look with varsity jackets and leather jackets as well as oversized jumpers. Denim hot-pants, t-shirts and swimsuits make her style perfect for sunnier climates so I hope that rainy England will start warming up soon.

Lana Del Rey





N°21 lacey dress, £715 / Oscar de la Renta / Topshop lacey dress, £98 / Monki , £30 / Paul by Paul Smith red varsity jacket / Melissa Odabash halter top one piece swimsuit, £145 / Topshop hot short shorts, £36 / Yellow gold jewelry, £3.42 / Hair accessory, £66 / Johnny Loves Rosie , £13 / Round sunglasses, £13

Thursday, 4 April 2013

Liebster Award

For the Liebster Award it is required to do the following:
  • Post eleven random facts about myself and answer the eleven questions from the person who nominated me
  • Pass on the award to eleven other blogs (let them know that I've nominated them) and write eleven questions for them to answer
  • You are not allowed to nominate the blog who nominated you
  • The blogs you choose must have 200 followers or less

Liebster is German for beloved or favourite which is sweet.

This is the third Liebster Award post I've done and they are probably quite boring for you to read so I have added an outfit collage. If there was an award's ceremony for this award then this is what I would wear:
Liebster Award




Crew neck dress
ebay.co.uk



Bangle jewelry
£38,360 - marissacollections.com



Pearl jewelry
£24 - handpicked.net



R J Graziano bangle jewelry
£17 - stylebop.com



Studded jewelry
£3.97 - maurices.com





Eleven Random Facts About Myself 


  • My favourite number is four.
  • My favourite season is summer.
  • I'm 15.
  • I was born in August.
  • My eye colour is blue.
  • I have been a vegetarian for just over two months.
  • I like late nights but hate early mornings. I am more likely to still be awake at 5am than to get up at 5am.
  • I prefer nights in to nights out.
  • I have a four month old puppy.
  • I worry too much about being insignificant.
  • I would love to live in Paris.


Questions from Old Bold Gold


1. Do you have any pets?

Yes. I have a dog and a guinea pig.

2. Place you would like to visit?
Paris (although I went there just last week)

3. Who is your man-crush celebrity?

Young Morrissey

4. What are your favourite TV series?

Pretty Little Liars, Freak and Geeks, Gossip Girl and The Following.

5. How did you get introduced to blogging?

I heard about it in a copy of Look magazine and decided to give it a shot because I love writing and fashion.

6. Song you could listen over and over again and not get bored?

Cemetery Gates- The Smiths

7.Anything you would like to change about yourself?

Lots.


8. Are you scared of anything/have any phobias?
Spiders.

9. What is your lucky number?
4

10. How do you picture your life in 5 years?
I will probably be studying for a degree in History or English Lit at uni. Either that or I would have gone off the rails and run away to live as a tortured artist on the streets of Paris.

11. What is your favourite fruit?
Mango

Eleven questions for the nominees:



  1. What is your favourite band?
  2. If you could have a tea party with five people (living or dead) who would you choose?
  3. What songs have made you cry?
  4. What are five things that you hate?
  5. What are five things that you love?
  6. If you could go back in time to any specific place or event, where would you go?
  7. What was the last book you read?
  8. What was the last film you watched?
  9. What was the last song you listened to?
  10. What are your favourite magazines?
  11. What do you want written on your gravestone?

Nominees:

http://anaruizwriting.blogspot.co.uk/
http://fashionfledge.blogspot.co.uk/
http://fromthelandofwhimsy.blogspot.co.uk/
http://themadmod.blogspot.co.uk/
http://birdiewearsatie.blogspot.co.uk/
http://www.thatseamslovely.com/
http://tumbleweedandporcelain.blogspot.co.uk/
http://hopelessanorak.blogspot.co.uk/
http://nothingbutapigeon.blogspot.co.uk/
http://sadgirlsonly.blogspot.co.uk/
http://www.theconfashionist.com/

Tuesday, 2 April 2013

Ageless Chic

One of the discrepancies within fashion blogging is ageism. The majority of successful fashion bloggers are in their twenties. However, I have found some classy blogs that showcase some excellent style all from ladies over the age of forty. My mum and both my grandmas often dress impeccably. My mum has lots of nice cocktail dresses, maxi dresses for the summer, shirt and tank top combos and some lovely, complimentary jewellery. My grandma on my mum's side loves the colour purple so her outfits usually include this colour. She also has a fascinating array of scarves. My grandma on my dad's side has lots of different jumpers and flattering trousers. She also has pearls and Breton stripes like Chanel. I also have three tried and tested outfits that will lead everyone in the direction of ageless chic...

The Trouser Suit



The trouser suit has been reincarnated from the '90s in recent seasons. Wear in muted colours and neutral for a more mature, everyday look but don't be afraid to experiment with colourful prints in the summer. Some can work at any age.

The Trouser Suit




Paul smith jacket
£520 - stylebop.com



10 crosby derek lam
£325 - amrag.com



French connection
£175 - usa.frenchconnection.com



A L C a l c
£330 - boutique1.com



Alexander wang pants
brownsfashion.com



Kurt Geiger suede shoes
£59 - dsw.com



Karen millen
£115 - karenmillen.com





Chanel Chic
Breton stripes and pearls work for any age. For evening, a little black dress is timeless. 

Coco Chanel




Givenchy cocktail black dress
£590 - jades24.com



Zimmermann dress
£150 - zimmermannstore.com



By Malene Birger knit top
£225 - shoplesnouvelles.com



Chanel
oqvestir.com.br





Aubin Wills cotton vintage shirt
£32 - net-a-porter.com



Paul Smith Black Label short cardigan
£96 - my-wardrobe.com







Tory burch jacket
net-a-porter.com



Highwaisted pants
£50 - topshop.com



Harrods cami
harrods.com



Steve Madden high heel shoes
£56 - heels.com



Alexander McQueen ballet shoes
£135 - montaignemarket.com



Chanel striped tote bag
£1,225 - colette.fr



Chanel vintage bracelet
£990 - amrag.com



Miriam haskell bracelet
£150 - charmandchain.com



Goorin hat
urbanexcess.com





Chanel makeup
holtrenfrew.com



Chanel
£30 - pret-a-beaute.com



Chanel nail polish
£18 - nordstrom.com



CHANEL SA VIE Justine Picardie
£32 - colette.fr



The Maxi Dress
There comes a point in every mother's life when their children become embarrassed by them wearing any skirt or dress shorter than just above the knee but who cares? Midi and maxi skirts are prettier and more original anyway.

Ageless Chic: Maxi Dresses