What do you get when you mix a disgraced anti-semitic ex-Dior creative director, a brand with a pristine reputation for couture and social media? Very excited fashion fans.
With tattered fabrics, with tulle, with crimson reds, with raven blacks and with a whole bundle of drama and hot anticipation, Galliano's debut collection for Margiela is the most talked about fashion event of 2015 so far.
The collection surely made grey, rainy Monday a lot more colourful. Watching the show as it happened was the place to be that day. An it crowd featuring everyone from Kate Moss to Christopher Bailey were in attendance.
Beautiful as the collection was, before we start going all heart eyes over it, we mustn't forget Galliano's racist comments that led to him being fired from Dior. The like the art but not the creator debate is a timeless one that I won't discuss here and now, but I didn't want to create a post that made it seem as though I was praising Galliano. I don't think he should have been allowed to return to the industry at all, but he has been welcomed back and the collection is one of my favourite couture collections for a while so I want to write about it.
The tattered fabrics give the collection an aura of ruined elegance (a metaphor for Galliano himself perhaps?) In contrast to the artistically torn up and ruined outfits, there were also nods towards classic minimalism, balancing out the collection and making it clear that Galliano wants to start with a clean slate.
The deconstructed elements paired with the abrasive reds are reminiscent of Comme des Garcons' Spring/Summer 2015 collection. This shade of red is very powerful and effective, but so much so that we rarely see it. Its connotations range from love to strength, and from lust to energy. It's certainly the colour to make an explosive return in; whether that's as a famous couturier in one of the world's fashion capitals or returning to school after the weekend/holidays.
The collection as a whole bounced between red and black; two striking colours that seem fitting for Galliano's return. Every look was distinguishable from the last with embellishments, deconstruction and even denim shorts all coming together cohesively with their shared colour scheme and artful detail.
I've never liked a collection by Galliano so much before. This is probably an unpopular opinion, but I found most of his designs for Dior sort of tacky. There were some beautiful looks and they were always extraordinary but when Style.com compared his work with Dior to past Margiela collections, Margiela was better in nearly every comparison. However, Galliano has adapted to the brand fantastically.
I especially like the last look and how it introduces Margiela's signature anonymity which I always thought was really cool and mysterious. Who wouldn't want to walk around 24/7 with a diamond encrusted mask covering their face and possibly completely obscuring their vision? Awesome.
The mystery that Margiela was previously shrouded in makes Galliano, one of the most high-profile designers in the world, seem an odd choice for creative director. However, the unassuming office block that the show was hosted in is perhaps a nod towards the label's past.
TULLE. I love tulle at the moment. I might try to make myself a tulle skirt once mocks are out of the way. The eyebrows. The patterns. THE EPIC SHOES.
Reminded me of Fendi's SS15 collection where Lagerfeld sent denim onto the Fendi runway for the first ever time. Denim doesn't have to be antithetical to our expectations of couture. It is actually really interesting to see what a pair of denim shorts look like when dressed up so extravagantly.
Ew. No. The collection could have done without this look. It reminds me of some of Galliano's past designs for Dior.
I literally LOVE this look so much. It features so many delicate details within its fabrics and textures. #art
The living embodiment of simultaneously having a heavy head and a heavy heart but looking fabulous nonetheless aka me at weekends lololol.
ALSO, didn't Lorde look amazing at the Golden Globes?
And if you haven't already, you need to watch Tina Fey and Amy Poehler's monologue from the Globes simply because it's so clever and funny. Have a nice week!
What did you think of Galliano's first Margiela collection? Leave a comment below as I'd love to know your opinion.