Rodarte's Fall/Winter 2015 collection was a colourful awakening from the repetitive monotony that New York Fashion Week is at risk of falling into. What was really interesting about this collection was its inspiration. The Mulleavy sisters claimed that “migrating birds” inspired the looks; an interesting take on wanderlust.The look evolved from a series of sophisticated city day looks- though quintessentially Rodarte in their individualism- to iridescent feather embellished DIY-esque gowns. The Mulleavy sisters have built up their reputation around creative vision that is independent of what other fashion houses are doing, but this collection did have tones of Saint Laurent to it; only the layers, furs and leathers added a tougher and less delicate feel. Overall, it must be said that the main inspiration for Rodarte's Fall collection was their Spring one. The same glitteringly beautiful embroidery and gamine blouses were worked into a leitmotif which, like the ocean theme for Spring, was not glaringly obvious, but subtly genius.
The closing gowns ran the risk of looking tacky with sequins, feathers and clashing fabrics all at once, but their intricate detailing made them blend into the theme of the rest of the collection seamlessly. The clothes exude creativity through their blend of crafted minutia and striking boldness. The collection is channelling the archetypal Rodarte girl; one who at once appreciates quality and is unafraid of wearing bright sequinned disco dresses no matter the occasion. This dreamland created by the Mulleavys is not weighed down to one location. The theme of "migrating birds" leaves the collection's vibes open to interpret into any outfit, wherever you are going and whatever you are doing. Why not wear a sequin rainbow dress for a casual lunch in town? Although the collection does feature some compacted looks, the delicate leather cuts and thin chiffon blouses feed into the notion of freedom; the kind that only birds ever experience fully. The way the material swishes from side to side, as the models walk, thematically mirrors the uninhibited beauty of the most fabulous birds of paradise.
The clothes steer clear of any seasonal cliches, but the colour tones are primarily more muted and neutral than the silvery shades and pastel blues of Rodarte's Spring/Summer 2015 collection and the warm practicality of fur and leather evoke a more autumnal feeling. The collection itself had a consistent colour scheme of blacks, browns and whites, but it was not barren of rainbow embellishments or bursts of bright colour, such as the stark contrast created with a bright orange print on a solid black background. It consisted also of of oversized thrift store granddad tweeds, frilly Victorian collars, daring lace leggings and even more daring low-cut plunge-neck blouses, introducing sex appeal into a collection otherwise so charmingly eccentric. Glamorous sequinned mini disco dresses danced along the line between hedonistic and trashy, but isn't disco always supposed to be a tad trashy? These sparkly little dresses are guaranteed to turn heads as you dance the night away under colourful lights. The chiffon strips between sequin stripes make sure that they really are something special.
Rodarte AW15 was cohesive without being cliche. It was visionary whilst simultaneously classically Rodarte. The Mulleavys once again noted an inspiration that was not the first go-to idea for fashion editors and buyers watching the show firsthand. Migrating birds? Of course. The models at Rodarte were beautiful iridescent peacocks migrating to a place where everyone wears crystal mesh and beaded tassels like they're going out of fashion- which the Mulleavys make sure they most certainly are not by using them repeatedly in new exciting and innovative ways in each of their collections. Fashion is about moving forwards and moving to exotic places. Rodarte's AW15 collection brought us just a bit closer to understanding the freedom of the world's most beautiful birds.