Monday, 25 January 2016

fall 2016 menswear

I've been appreciating this season's menswear collections more than ever before. I think there's a lot more unexplored territory in menswear than there is in womenswear that gives it the potential to be much more interesting. The reaction to Jaden Smith for Louis Vuitton's Spring/Summer 2016 campaign shows how the menswear industry is still trapped in a somewhat conservative cycle of clothes representing masculinity, which breaks down into the same tailored suits being churned out every season. However, so far this season we have seen more patterns, fur and glitter than before.

Berluti

I don't know much about Beluti as a brand and I've never paid much attention to their collections before, but this collection really stood out for me. It had a touch of rock star style, attitude and an interesting colour palette.
Navy makes a refreshing change from black. It is difficult to pull off wearing head-to-toe of one colour but it works really well here, with the different fabrics against each other drawing attention to the quality of the tailoring.
Black and brown is another combination that it often difficult to pull off. The jacket weighs down the look, making it slim and sleek. It would be a perfect look for travelling in. You'd step off the plane looking like a rock star.



I love blue at the moment. It is quite a staple colour for most people but it can really make an outfit pop. I didn't realise how much I wanted a suede bomber until I saw the one in this collection. Paired with the leather trousers it looks very motorcyclist, but with the scarf underneath it has a west coast California James Dean vibe, which is never a bad thing. Ever.


The white jacket is my favourite thing about this look. My second favourite thing is the tattoo. All the models had fake tattoos towards the end of the collection, showing that fashion isn't just about the clothes we wear but anything aesthetic, our attitudes and how we present ourselves. Having the tattoos there makes you search out other more intricate details, such as the snake patterned patent shoes in the look on the right, which are amazing.

Dior Homme


I was largely underwhelmed by Dior Homme. A lot of the looks were very similar and unoriginal, though, of course, excellently tailored. The sunglasses on the left are funky and the necktie makes a change from an ordinary tie, whilst matching the silky texture of the shirt. Though the fingerless gloves and trainers make the look less cohesive, they add an edginess to what would otherwise be a largely classical Dior look. The black nail polish worn by the models throughout the collection also suggests a move in a more anti-establishment, non gender binary direction.

White may be a fairly standard colour, but have it on any item of clothing other than a plain t-shirt and it always stands out. The delicate white floral trousers are offset against the utility boots and leather jacket; a nod towards more traditional masculinity. Adding a relaxed jacket and boots over a carefully constructed outfit always makes it look effortlessly cool.

Alexander McQueen

Finally here's an outline for punks who love butterflies. This collection is very McQueen thematically in its dark romantic atmosphere. It is equally haunting and beautiful.


I love the detail on these two jackets. The shoes remind me of PE plimsolls, but if you were wearing such a beautifully, intricate jacket no one would notice the shoes anyway.

Thom Browne

Thom Browne is my favourite menswear designer. He can always be relied on to put together a collection to get excited about. We should have been wearing hats like this for a long time already anyway. The clothes look like they have a story to tell. 


The looks at the beginning of the collection contrast quite sharply with the looks towards the end. They go from scruffy school boy to something much more sophisticated and feminine. Admittedly, the white hats do look quite intimidating, perhaps the likeness to hockey masks/Jason from Friday 13th is a bit too much. I do love the coat on the left and the bag on the right though.

Burberry

I really liked Burberry's collection. It was quite predictable and wearable, but that makes it all the more abundant with style inspiration. The rich jewel tones add a sophisticated look, with the fur bomber jacket being a real statement piece.


I think I have a bit of an obsession with jackets and coats at the moment. They can definitely make or break an outfit, as seen above. Even if you're dressed in sportswear, adding a patterned bomber or oversized fur coat makes it look so much better.





(Runway photos from Vogue runway. Other photos from Tumblr.)

What are your favourite menswear collections this season? Have a good week xxxx