Erdem was one of my favourite Autumn/Winter 2016 collections. Its 1930s Hollywood vibes were glamorous with a modern twist.
"I thought of what they were trying to be, heading toward the lights and stardom."
So Erdem Moralioglu said of his Fall 2016 collection which saw a recreation of the decadent glamour that defined stardom in the 1930s and 40s with models sashaying down the runway in chiffon, in velvet, in lace. Inspired by classic film stars such as Bette Davis, the show oozed classic beauty. However, there was also a sense of modernity to the collection. It was not simply another recreation of an era so brimming with style inspiration. Though classical glamour prevailed, there was a sense of freedom in the clothes. Many looks were diaphanous and classy Marlene Dietrich-esque trouser suits also made an appearance. In many ways this collection is more suited to the modern woman than other Fall 2016 collections that have revived the corset. The makeup was minimalist, with red lipstick adding a pop of playfulness.
The look was simultaneously chic, frivolous and flashy; a mix that worked well through ankle sweeping hems, frills and sequins. Erdem's sophisticated style slipped perfectly into the theme of 1930s/40s Hollywood. It's hard to believe that this is the first time that the designer has created a collection directly inspired by the era. The clothes themselves were alluring, beautiful and intricate. Despite the obvious harking back to another era, the collection avoids costume. Erdem has an understanding of womanhood, adding sensitivity to what could otherwise be a trope-like inspiration. It celebrates the past but there is a sense that women wearing this collection are looking towards the future. This is a more delicate kind of power dressing; powerful through its eye-catching femininity and abundance of glitter.
I'm going to try to keep this blog updated more regularly over Easter. Recently I've been drowning under course reading and continuing to write for The Tab as their Fashion Editor. Have a fab week!